Skip to main content

Managing pasture - is burning necessary?

This time of year (spring) we don’t get much rain.  The tropical grass species in our pasture have dried out over winter due to the low temperatures and low rainfall.  They are in a fully mature state, with relatively low protein and mineral content.  The stock feeding on this pasture tend to lose or maintain weight, but rarely gain significant weight.  Now that the temperatures are starting to increase, we are waiting for rain so that the pasture will re-enter its leafy growth stage and provide good quality fodder for the cattle to start getting fat for market. In Queensland, late winter and spring tend to be our dry period, with rain coming in summer.

Growth stages of perinneal grasses and legumes (image source),
note that protein and mineral content decrease with maturity
There are several ways to accelerate this process.  Certainly if you leave the dry dead bushes of grass in the pasture, the amount of leafy growth, even when it rains, will be reduced.  The new leaves tend to grow from the outside of the bush, so the bigger the bush, the less useful leaves are growing on the inside.  If you can remove most of the dry grass, the leafy growth will start early, from all around the plant, particularly if there is still good soil moisture from winter rains.  The dry grass can be removed by:
  • Controlled burning
  • Slashing
  • Managed grazing
 Controlled burning is very popular in our area at this time of year, and we can often see plumes of smoke on the horizon.  When we haven’t had any rain for months, I get very nervous about the capability to control these fires.  This anecdote gives a good explanation of the why farmers burn their pastures in Australia:
 “The a'bos. did it. Grandad did it. Everyone does it. You must burn the grass to make it grow. (A pretty silly reason.) It gets rid of regrowth and fallen timber. The ash fertilizes the soil. You must get rid of the old grass to allow fresh grass to grow. Cattle "do" better on fresh feed. I have this primitive urge to light a fire, it makes me feel good. Plus a few others that I have forgotten.”
That article also explains that the writer stopped burning on their property and the cattle and pasture “did better” than the neighbours who continued burning.  And then this morescientific study from a QLD government department explains that even though burning the grass does release nitrogen, so that the grass initially has high protein content, the cattle actually have better weight gain overall if the pasture is not burnt, as the dry material helps with muscle formation.

Many farmers claim that they need to burn to control woody weeds and saplings, however this research (and my observations of properties belonging to neighbours who burn paddocks) shows that those are the plants more likely to survive fire, while the perennial and annual grasses that you want to promote are most likely to be damaged!  Not just the plants, but also the seeds in the soil.

In terms of soil mineral management, carbon in the form of organic matter can help to balance deficiencies and excesses.  It feeds the microbes and improves water holding capacity.  Soil carbon is the very thing that you want to increase in order to improve pasture.  Burning the pasture destroys all that carbon in the dead grass, turning it into climate-change inducing CO2.  Over the longer term, this has the effect of preventing soil-building and degrading the pasture.  More here.

For this reason, this article recommends:
Slash/mulch a pasture, rather than burn it.
Slashing/mulching promotes green pick. Slashing is preferable to burning, as the cut pasture material will break down and add valuable organic matter tothe soil. Much of the organic matter is lost when a pasture is burnt.”
 More on slashing vs burning here.  

Obviously slashing pasture is not always practical over large areas.  We have certainly seen the improvements on our eight acres since we started slashing (as per PeterAndrews’ recommendations in his books Back from the Brink and Beyond the Brink).  We have seen improved pasture coverage (ie fewer bare patches) and better growth in general.  Even though it is claimed that the heaps of dry grass can kill the grass, we have never seen that happen, in fact I will often kick the dry grass away to find lush green grass below, and the cattle will do the same. 

At our 258 acre Cheslyn Rise property, we (I mean farmer pete with me supervising) have slashed certain areas of the pasture that we know are free of stumps and logs etc.  At eight acres, our strategy was to fence off a paddock of about an acre, let the cattle eat as much as possible, then we could see what to avoid on the slasher.  On the larger property this is not possible as we currently have no way to provide water to small paddocks, and there are a lot of stumps cut off just below grass height by the previous owner, so we have to be very careful with slashing in new areas! 

for example, some very dry grass before slashing
The ideal solution would be an even more intensive grazing pattern (if/when we have the water set up) as practiced by Joel Salatin(Polyface farm) and my other favourite farmer – Matron of Husbandry (of the blog Throwback from Trapper Creek).  They move their cattle every day, with the theory being that the cattle trample any grass or weeds that they don’t eat.  This prevents woody weed growth, and builds soil carbon. 

At Cheslyn Rise we have another good reason to keep the grass short – we have found out that we have a good population of paralysis ticks, which can kill small calves.  These ticks live in the long grass and one way to manage the tick population is to keep the grass short.  This is a little complicated as we have about 100 acres of forested area, some of which has grass growing under the trees.  More here and here.

One way that we could manage the grass that we can’t slash and that the cattle won’t eat, is to burn it.  It would have to be a very controlled burn, as you wouldn’t want the 100 acres of forest area to catch alight, and we have some very good fencing that we wouldn’t want to have to rebuild either!  We are currently considering our options.

General information about pasture management:

Any advice from your experience with managing pasture?


  1. The one reason I would advocate against burning, is that it cooks the microbes in your soil: the very lifeforms which help build and carry fertility underground. You need to build their populations up to get nutritious growth, not reduce them.

    Burning also draws moisture from the ground, which means you then have to cart more moisture in or hope it rains to bring it back.

    I know your dilemma about managing these things however. We are currently in the process of removing lantana and sapling growth, which has gotten out of hand over the years. With no animals to help and only a brush-cutter and some hand tools, it's a matter of methodical application. Some of the larger trees have been removed and so we have stumps sticking up too.

    Our strategy is to wait a year and then once the stumps are dry, we'll try burning them out, one at a time. It's going to be a long process, but we live in a fragile environment where the soils need work to prevent erosion.

    I also like slow and methodical because we get to see what our efforts achieve in a season. Some strategies aren't the best, but because we're moving slowly any problems which are detected, we can change strategy without causing too much damage.

    It's so hard though because we want the animals already here, but we can't put them in without anything to feed them. We have to convert bushland to something edible. But the goal is always there (proper nutrition) so we keep plugging away at the environment.

    We visited some friends recently and discovered they had a tick infestation with their sheep (they only have a few) but they always came out in large numbers with prolonged wet periods. So ticks are present in our area too. I've already had to pluck two off my husband, when he was cutting through long grass and lantana.

    I'm not sure what the answer is with how we'll deal with ticks ourselves. I can't help but think a nutritious diet must go a long way to helping an animal cope though.

  2. I was going to say no to burn as it kills the soil microbes too but it seems I was not the only one thinking it. Regular slashing after stock have been in the paddock held break up the cow pats and creates a new layer of organic matter every time.

  3. Sounds like you're putting good thought into this. I don't have anything useful to add, although I did randomly wonder if goats would help eat through the longer grass for you where you don't have water set up. Although I guess you probably need to provide water for goats too so that train of thought went nowhere.

    Anyway, good luck and I will be interested to see what you come up with.

  4. Fascinating! Thank you for linking up with the Clever Chicks this week; I hope you’ll join us again!

    Kathy Shea Mormino
    The Chicken Chick

  5. I've been doing more reading, and its not just the microbes that are affected, but also destroying all that carbon and ground cover is totally detrimental. Our lovely Braford cows are really getting into eating some of the older grass clumps for us, so maybe we won't need to burn in the end (I hope so!).


Post a Comment

Thanks, I appreciate all your comments, suggestions and questions, but I don't always get time to reply right away. If you need me to reply personally to a question, please leave your email address in the comment or in your profile, or email me directly on eight.acres.liz at

Popular posts from this blog

Getting started with chickens - Tanya from Lovely Greens

Sign up for my weekly email updates here, you will find out more about soap and our farmlife, straight to your inbox, never miss a post!  New soap website and shop opening soon....

Farmer Liz: You will remember Tanya from Lovely Greens from the first series, she lives on the Isle of Mann and added chickens to her garden about a year ago.  You can leave comments for this post on Tanya's blog.

How many chickens (and other fowl) do you keep, what breed and what do you use them for (meat, eggs, slug control etc)?
Tanya: Around the same time that we were initially thinking about having hens another friend beat us to the punch. She went to the local pet store and bought a flat-pack hen house and chicken run combo and found a local farmer who had dozens of semi-feral chickens running around his property. One night he pulled three down from the trees and my friend took them home in a pet carrier. She named them Miracel, Carmen, and Geraldine and though they’re probably related they were all…

What to do with eight acres

Behind the scenes of my blog I can see the search terms that led people to find my blog.  It can be quite interesting to look through them occasionally and see what people are looking for.  Most of them involve chicken tractors, but another question that comes up regularly is “what can you do with eight acres?” or “how much land is eight acres?”.  Today I will try to answer this question.

Of course it is a very broad question, there are lots and lots of things you can do with eight acres, but I’m going to assume that you want to live there, feed your family and maybe make a little extra money.  I make that assumption because that’s what I know about, if you want to do something else with your eight acres, you will need to look somewhere else.

If you haven’t chosen your land yet, here a few things to look for.  Focus on the things you can’t change and try to choose the best property you can find in your price range.  Look for clean water in dams, bores or wells, either on the property …

Growing mushrooms in my kitchen!

I’ve been wanting to try growing mushrooms for some time. I LOVE mushrooms and we buy them from the supermarket every week, so I was keen to find a way to produce them at home to reduce waste and potentially cost as well.

A few years ago I found out that you could grow mushrooms from the spent mushroom compost from mushroom farms. So we dropped in to a farm on the Sunshine Coast and picked up a couple of boxes for $2 each. I diligently kept them dark and sprayed them with water, but in our climate, I just couldn’t keep them damp enough (and I had to keep them outside because our shed was too hot). I never managed to produce any mushrooms from those boxes, but when I gave up and tipped the compost out onto the garden, mushrooms sprang up everywhere. I wasn’t confident that they were the right mushrooms though, so I didn’t harvest any of those. As the proverb says, All mushrooms are edible, but some only once! I am generally a bit nervous about unidentified fungi.

Since then, I had…