Skip to main content

Managing pasture - is burning necessary?

This time of year (spring) we don’t get much rain.  The tropical grass species in our pasture have dried out over winter due to the low temperatures and low rainfall.  They are in a fully mature state, with relatively low protein and mineral content.  The stock feeding on this pasture tend to lose or maintain weight, but rarely gain significant weight.  Now that the temperatures are starting to increase, we are waiting for rain so that the pasture will re-enter its leafy growth stage and provide good quality fodder for the cattle to start getting fat for market. In Queensland, late winter and spring tend to be our dry period, with rain coming in summer.

Growth stages of perinneal grasses and legumes (image source),
note that protein and mineral content decrease with maturity
There are several ways to accelerate this process.  Certainly if you leave the dry dead bushes of grass in the pasture, the amount of leafy growth, even when it rains, will be reduced.  The new leaves tend to grow from the outside of the bush, so the bigger the bush, the less useful leaves are growing on the inside.  If you can remove most of the dry grass, the leafy growth will start early, from all around the plant, particularly if there is still good soil moisture from winter rains.  The dry grass can be removed by:
  • Controlled burning
  • Slashing
  • Managed grazing
 Controlled burning is very popular in our area at this time of year, and we can often see plumes of smoke on the horizon.  When we haven’t had any rain for months, I get very nervous about the capability to control these fires.  This anecdote gives a good explanation of the why farmers burn their pastures in Australia:
 “The a'bos. did it. Grandad did it. Everyone does it. You must burn the grass to make it grow. (A pretty silly reason.) It gets rid of regrowth and fallen timber. The ash fertilizes the soil. You must get rid of the old grass to allow fresh grass to grow. Cattle "do" better on fresh feed. I have this primitive urge to light a fire, it makes me feel good. Plus a few others that I have forgotten.”
That article also explains that the writer stopped burning on their property and the cattle and pasture “did better” than the neighbours who continued burning.  And then this morescientific study from a QLD government department explains that even though burning the grass does release nitrogen, so that the grass initially has high protein content, the cattle actually have better weight gain overall if the pasture is not burnt, as the dry material helps with muscle formation.

Many farmers claim that they need to burn to control woody weeds and saplings, however this research (and my observations of properties belonging to neighbours who burn paddocks) shows that those are the plants more likely to survive fire, while the perennial and annual grasses that you want to promote are most likely to be damaged!  Not just the plants, but also the seeds in the soil.

In terms of soil mineral management, carbon in the form of organic matter can help to balance deficiencies and excesses.  It feeds the microbes and improves water holding capacity.  Soil carbon is the very thing that you want to increase in order to improve pasture.  Burning the pasture destroys all that carbon in the dead grass, turning it into climate-change inducing CO2.  Over the longer term, this has the effect of preventing soil-building and degrading the pasture.  More here.

For this reason, this article recommends:
Slash/mulch a pasture, rather than burn it.
Slashing/mulching promotes green pick. Slashing is preferable to burning, as the cut pasture material will break down and add valuable organic matter tothe soil. Much of the organic matter is lost when a pasture is burnt.”
 More on slashing vs burning here.  

Obviously slashing pasture is not always practical over large areas.  We have certainly seen the improvements on our eight acres since we started slashing (as per PeterAndrews’ recommendations in his books Back from the Brink and Beyond the Brink).  We have seen improved pasture coverage (ie fewer bare patches) and better growth in general.  Even though it is claimed that the heaps of dry grass can kill the grass, we have never seen that happen, in fact I will often kick the dry grass away to find lush green grass below, and the cattle will do the same. 

At our 258 acre Cheslyn Rise property, we (I mean farmer pete with me supervising) have slashed certain areas of the pasture that we know are free of stumps and logs etc.  At eight acres, our strategy was to fence off a paddock of about an acre, let the cattle eat as much as possible, then we could see what to avoid on the slasher.  On the larger property this is not possible as we currently have no way to provide water to small paddocks, and there are a lot of stumps cut off just below grass height by the previous owner, so we have to be very careful with slashing in new areas! 

for example, some very dry grass before slashing
The ideal solution would be an even more intensive grazing pattern (if/when we have the water set up) as practiced by Joel Salatin(Polyface farm) and my other favourite farmer – Matron of Husbandry (of the blog Throwback from Trapper Creek).  They move their cattle every day, with the theory being that the cattle trample any grass or weeds that they don’t eat.  This prevents woody weed growth, and builds soil carbon. 

At Cheslyn Rise we have another good reason to keep the grass short – we have found out that we have a good population of paralysis ticks, which can kill small calves.  These ticks live in the long grass and one way to manage the tick population is to keep the grass short.  This is a little complicated as we have about 100 acres of forested area, some of which has grass growing under the trees.  More here and here.

One way that we could manage the grass that we can’t slash and that the cattle won’t eat, is to burn it.  It would have to be a very controlled burn, as you wouldn’t want the 100 acres of forest area to catch alight, and we have some very good fencing that we wouldn’t want to have to rebuild either!  We are currently considering our options.

General information about pasture management:

Any advice from your experience with managing pasture?


  1. The one reason I would advocate against burning, is that it cooks the microbes in your soil: the very lifeforms which help build and carry fertility underground. You need to build their populations up to get nutritious growth, not reduce them.

    Burning also draws moisture from the ground, which means you then have to cart more moisture in or hope it rains to bring it back.

    I know your dilemma about managing these things however. We are currently in the process of removing lantana and sapling growth, which has gotten out of hand over the years. With no animals to help and only a brush-cutter and some hand tools, it's a matter of methodical application. Some of the larger trees have been removed and so we have stumps sticking up too.

    Our strategy is to wait a year and then once the stumps are dry, we'll try burning them out, one at a time. It's going to be a long process, but we live in a fragile environment where the soils need work to prevent erosion.

    I also like slow and methodical because we get to see what our efforts achieve in a season. Some strategies aren't the best, but because we're moving slowly any problems which are detected, we can change strategy without causing too much damage.

    It's so hard though because we want the animals already here, but we can't put them in without anything to feed them. We have to convert bushland to something edible. But the goal is always there (proper nutrition) so we keep plugging away at the environment.

    We visited some friends recently and discovered they had a tick infestation with their sheep (they only have a few) but they always came out in large numbers with prolonged wet periods. So ticks are present in our area too. I've already had to pluck two off my husband, when he was cutting through long grass and lantana.

    I'm not sure what the answer is with how we'll deal with ticks ourselves. I can't help but think a nutritious diet must go a long way to helping an animal cope though.

  2. I was going to say no to burn as it kills the soil microbes too but it seems I was not the only one thinking it. Regular slashing after stock have been in the paddock held break up the cow pats and creates a new layer of organic matter every time.

  3. Sounds like you're putting good thought into this. I don't have anything useful to add, although I did randomly wonder if goats would help eat through the longer grass for you where you don't have water set up. Although I guess you probably need to provide water for goats too so that train of thought went nowhere.

    Anyway, good luck and I will be interested to see what you come up with.

  4. Fascinating! Thank you for linking up with the Clever Chicks this week; I hope you’ll join us again!

    Kathy Shea Mormino
    The Chicken Chick

  5. I've been doing more reading, and its not just the microbes that are affected, but also destroying all that carbon and ground cover is totally detrimental. Our lovely Braford cows are really getting into eating some of the older grass clumps for us, so maybe we won't need to burn in the end (I hope so!).


Post a Comment

Thanks, I appreciate all your comments, suggestions and questions, but I don't always get time to reply right away. If you need me to reply personally to a question, please leave your email address in the comment or in your profile, or email me directly on eight.acres.liz at

Popular posts from this blog

Chicken tractor guest post

Sign up for my weekly email updates here , you will find out more about chickens, soap and our farmlife, straight to your inbox, never miss a post!  New soap website and shop opening soon.... Tanya from Lovely Greens invited me to write a guest post on chicken tractors for her blog.  I can't believe how many page views I get for chicken tractors, they seem to be a real area of interest and I hope that the information on my blog has helped people.  I find that when I use something everyday, I forget the details that other people may not be aware of, so in this post for Tanya, I tried to just write everything I could think of that I haven't covered in previous posts.  I tried to explain everything we do and why, so that people in other locations and situations can figure out how best to use chicken tractors with their own chickens. The dogs like to hang out behind the chicken tractors and eat chicken poo.  Dogs are gross! If you want to read more about chicken tractor

The new Eight Acres website is live!

Very soon this blogspot address will automatically redirect to the new Eight Acres site, but in the meantime, you can check it out here .  You will find all my soaps, ebooks and beeswax/honey products there, as well as the blog (needs a tidy up, but its all there!).  I will be gradually updating all my social media links and updating and sharing blog posts over the next few months.  I'm very excited to share this new website with you!

Activated charcoal soap and salve

Since I started making my own soap, I've been enjoying trying new recipes, especially adapting them to use beef tallow.  See my post  Sustainable soap - 100% tallow!  for most about why I want to use up the tallow rendered from our own beef. I already sell 100% tallow soap (pure and simple), pink clay soap (pretty pink), lemon balm soap (green herb), neem oil soap (stinky neem) and coffee grounds soap (true grit) in my Etsy shop , and just recently I added my new black magic charcoal soap.  See the links at the end of this post for the other recipes. When I read about how this lady found that activated charcoal soap helped with adult acne , I really wanted to make some and give it a try.  I have had acne on and off since high school, and it really bugs me.  I found a  a recipe for ctivated charcoal soap  here, and then adapted it to suit tallow, with 25% coconut oil for suds.  It makes a really nice face wash, although I can't say its cured my acne completely. I orde